In about the time it takes to steam a pot of rice, the curry is done. I usually have a bag of prawns in the freezer, but small filets of a firm white fish would do well, too. If you can’t find a decent tomato, you can riff a bit, serving it with boiled potatoes (as we often did when I was younger) or maybe throwing in some sliced leeks while you’re sautéing the onions. It’s conspicuously easy-so much so, that the first time I made it, I checked the recipe twice to see if I was missing some tricky step. Onions should be chunky, chiles are whole, and a jar of garlic paste replaces hand-minced cloves. Save for some matchsticks of ginger, nothing needs to be cut too preciously. Growing up, we usually ate the gravy with boiled eggs, but this South Indian version of the dish calls for plump prawns, tossed in at the end with a handful of tomato wedges. To make fresh string hoppers, you need a special press, but authors Shamil Thakrar, Naved Nasir, and Kavi Thakrar suggest that steamed rice will do if you’re without one.
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